After repairing our engine mounts in Shearwater/Bella Bella, we decided to venture north again, but more towards the interior this time, first spending a couple of nights in Troup Narrows, highlighted by a young bear who visited the nearby beach both days.
From Troup Narrows, we headed up the 30 miles or so along Roscoe Inlet. While the guide books talked about this being a beautiful place, it was still a big surprise. We had been a ways up the Dean Channel and probably expected something similar to its long forested slopes. As we rounded the corner to enter the upper half of the inlet, it revealed mile after mile of smooth granite peaks diving down into the inlet, with waterfalls tumbling down the open rocks and forested gullies. For those who have been to the stunning Princess Louisa Inlet north east of Pender Harbour, this reminded me of the feeling of entering there for the first time. Roscoe Inlet, shrouded by clouds and the mist, is one of those serene places that makes you feel small in the world, humbled by the scenery around you.
We anchored alone at the head of the inlet across from a wide beach and woke in the morning to find the sun was breaking through the occasional gaps in the clouds. We packed up the dinghy with our cameras and headed out to explore, closely watched by the local bald eagle. Despite a bit of searching, we couldn’t find any opening off the beach up to allow us to hike up into the hills, but we wandered along the stream spotting the occasional salmon and bear footprint.
Mostly, though, we kept looking up at the peaks around us and constantly shifting view as the sun streamed in and out and the clouds moved around the peaks.